Giant, Dangerous Waves Destroy the French Polynesian Coast, but Surfers Everywhere Are Still Crazy Enough To Try and Shred These Deadly Sets

Big wave surfers are known to be generally insane.

With bone-crushing 40ft waves, big time surfers still consider getting in the world’s tumultuous oceans, often traveling around the globe to catch the perfect set.

Recently, there has been an enormous swell brewing in the Pacific ocean, threatening the coastlines of French Polynesia, Hawaii, and all the way up to the coast of California. Most notably, at Teahupo’o, a well-known surf spot in Tahiti, there have been bigger waves than the island has seen in nearly two decades.

Teahupo’o, literally translated to “Place of Skulls”, is one of the deadliest waves in the world on a regular swell, but right now, with what is being called The Code Red Swell, the island has attempted to shut down access to the wave, restricting tow boats, tour boats, and photography guides from entering the water.

That didn’t stop most people.

Huge Teahupo'o swell in French Polynesia

Mahina Florence is the wife of big-time surfer Nathan Florence, a world class big wave surfer and bonafide crazy man. Mahina, like many family members of big wave chasers, is often dragged around the world, following insane swells like the Code Red at Teahupo’o.

In her video, she narrowly escapes the crushing break of Teahupo’o’s wall of water, moving at insane speeds and with surprising volume.

These impressive waves dwarf their riders, rising from the open ocean like hulking, murderous mouths that eat the reef and whomever stands in their way. Because of the wave’s size and speed, it’s almost impossible for a surfer to paddle into the wave like they usually do, so jetskis tow them in like a wakeboarder, bringing them up to nearly 30mph to drop in from dizzying heights to catch the wave of a lifetime.

Many of the big wave surfers at Teahupo’o are actually from Hawaii, so even when they were banned from the waters in Tahiti, they simply went home to their local breaks to ride some pretty epic waves from the lingering Code Red swell.

Longest barrel I have ever had 🙏🏾🌊

There’s always a monster wave somewhere. Some insane man will always be willing to fly around the world to hurl himself into the jaws of death too.

Cheers to the endless search for the perfect wave and those willing to film these harrowing feats so that we can munch popcorn from the safe, dry warmth of our cozy apartments.